DTF Transfer Pressing Instructions

Follow these steps for a professional, retail-quality finish.

What You’ll Need:

• Heat Press: A professional heat press is highly recommended. (Cricut EasyPress users: apply heavy manual body weight).
• Parchment Paper or Teflon Sheet: To protect the garment and the film.
•  Firm, Flat Surface: Ensure no seams, buttons, or zippers are under the pressing area.

 The 3-Step Pressing Process:

1. The Pre-Press (Moisture Removal)

Lay your garment on the press and clamp it down for 5–8 seconds.

• Why? This removes moisture and wrinkles from the fabric, ensuring the adhesive bonds perfectly.

2. The Main Press (The Bond)

Place your transfer (white side down) onto the garment. Cover with parchment paper or a Teflon sheet.

• Temperature: 300°F – 320°F (150°C – 160°C)
• Pressure: HEAVY (This is critical! You should have to use some force to lock the press).
•  Time: 12 – 15 Seconds.

3. The Peel & Final Seal

•  The Peel: Wait for the film to feel completely cold to the touch before peeling. Peel low and slow in one smooth motion. (If the design lifts, stop immediately and re-press for 10 seconds).
• The Finishing Press: Once the film is off, place parchment paper directly over the design and press again for 5–8 seconds.
•  Pro Tip: This "finishing press" pushes the ink into the fibers, giving it that soft feel and increasing wash durability.

Care & Washing Instructions:

To keep your custom gear looking brand new:

1.    Wait 24 hours before the first wash.

2.    Turn the garment inside out.

3.    Machine wash Cold or Warm (avoid Hot).

4.    Hang dry or tumble dry on Low heat.

5.    Do NOT iron directly onto the print.

Troubleshooting:

•  Design isn't sticking? Increase your pressure. Most issues are caused by "medium" pressure that isn't pushing the glue into the fabric.

Small details lifting? Ensure you are peeling Cold. Patience is key for fine lines!

UV DTF Transfer Instructions

IMPORTANT: These transfers are permanent. Once they touch the surface, they are very difficult to remove. Please align carefully before making contact!

What You’ll Need:

•  Hard Surface: Glass, ceramic, metal, acrylic, or finished wood.
• Rubbing Alcohol (70% IPA): To clean the surface.
• Microfiber Cloth: For a lint-free finish.
• Squeegee or Plastic Card: (A credit card works great) to burnish the design.

The 3-Step Application Process:

1. Surface Preparation (The Most Important Step)

Clean your item thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and a microfiber cloth.

•  Why? Even invisible finger oils or dust will prevent the "medical-grade" adhesive from bonding properly. Ensure the surface is completely dry before proceeding.

2. Position & Apply

Your transfer has a clear carrier sheet on top and a white/clear backing on the bottom.

• Peel: Slowly peel the white/clear backing off, ensuring the entire design stays attached to the clear carrier sheet.
•  Place: Hold the transfer by the edges. Start from the center and lay it down outward to avoid trapping air bubbles.
• Tip: Once it touches the surface, it’s stuck! Do not try to reposition it.

3. Burnish & Peel

•  Burnish: Use a squeegee or your thumb to rub the design firmly. Apply heavy pressure over the entire image, especially the small details and edges.
• The Peel: Slowly peel the clear carrier sheet away at a sharp angle (flat against the surface).
•  Fixing: If any part of the design lifts with the tape, lay it back down, rub it again firmly, and try peeling from a different corner.

Care & Longevity:

•  Wait to Wash: Allow the adhesive to "cure" for 24 hours before getting it wet.
•  Hand Wash Only: While UV DTF is extremely durable, the high heat and harsh chemicals of a dishwasher can break down the adhesive over time.
• Avoid Microwaves: Not recommended for microwave use.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

•  Textured Surfaces: UV DTF works best on smooth, non-porous surfaces. It may struggle to bond to silicone, fabric, or "soft-touch" rubberized coatings.
• Cold Surfaces: If the item is very cold, the adhesive won't grab as well. Apply at room temperature.
•  Curved Items: For tapered tumblers, you may need to "snip" the clear carrier tape (not the design!) in a few spots to help it wrap without wrinkling.

Sublimation Transfer Instructions

IMPORTANT: Sublimation only works on Light Colored (White or Light Grey) garments with at least 65% Polyester content. 100% Polyester provides the most vibrant results.

 What You’ll Need:

• Heat Press: A professional heat press is required (handheld irons will not work).
• Butcher Paper (Uncoated): To place inside and on top of the garment.
•  Heat Resistant Tape: To keep the transfer from moving.
• Lint Roller: To remove any invisible fibers.

The 4-Step Sublimation Process:

1. Preparation & Lint Rolling

Lint roll the entire pressing area thoroughly.

•  Why? Even tiny blue fibers will turn into permanent blue/purple streaks once heated to 400°F.
• Pre-Press: Press the garment for 5–10 seconds to remove moisture and wrinkles.

2. Alignment & Taping

Place your sublimation transfer face down on the garment.

• Secure it: Use 2–4 pieces of heat-resistant tape on the edges. If the paper shifts even slightly during the press, it will create a "ghosting" (blurry) effect.
•  Internal Barrier: Place a piece of butcher paper inside the shirt to prevent the gas from bleeding through to the back.

3. The Big Heat (The Gas Phase)

Cover the transfer with another sheet of butcher paper to protect your heat press platen.

• Temperature: 385°F – 400°F (195°C – 205°C)
•  Pressure: MEDIUM (Too much pressure can cause "paper lines" on the shirt).
• Time: 45 – 60 Seconds.

4. The "Hot" Reveal

Open the press slowly and carefully. Remove the transfer paper immediately while it is still hot.

• Pro Tip: Lift the paper in one swift motion to prevent any secondary "ghost" images from forming while the gas is still escaping.

Care & Longevity:

• Unlike DTF, sublimation becomes part of the fabric. It will never crack, peel, or fade as long as the garment lasts!
• Wash normally. Avoid bleach to keep colors bright.

Troubleshooting "Why is it Faded?"

• Not enough Polyester: If you used a 50/50 blend, your image will look "vintage" or faded because the gas only bonds to the polyester fibers, not the cotton.
• Upside Down: Ensure the "pretty side" (the ink) is touching the fabric.
• Not Hot Enough: Sublimation gas usually won't activate below 375°F.